Brat Fry Secrets Revealed

Having grown up in Sheboygan, Wisconsin, the bratwurst was a food to be revered.  In the 50’s and 60’s, Sheboygan was dotted with small “craft” butchers.  Their German heritage drove them to compete mercilessly at sausage-making.

It is not an exaggeration to say that Sundays at around noon, the atmosphere of Sheboygan was smokey.  This was because of the institution known as the “brat fry.”  Truth-be-told, frying had nothing to do with it.  This was grilling at its best.

Our neighbors on Los Angeles Avenue were Al and OG Gmach.  Al was the purveyor of Gmach’s Restaurant downtown.  Needless to say, one would not be able to run a restaurant in Sheboygan without mastering the art of the bratwurst.  Al had not only done so, but he shared its secrets with my father.

Do not think that this was done without forethought.  Here is a the brat oath, sacred in Sheboygan lore.

I know that I probably shouldn’t, but I now give you the secrets to creating the perfect brat:

Ingredients:

• Bratwurst – I prefer those from Maplewood Meats near Green Bay, although you could do much worse than Johnsonville Brats from Sheboygan Falls.  Unfortunately, the old butchers are now gone to the great sausage playground in the sky
• 2-3 Onions – chopped roughly.  These will go into the “jus de brat.”  It can be considered good form to retain some of the raw onions for those who prefer non-cooked onions.
• 1 stick butter
• Hard rolls – round, not oblong
• 1 – many cans/bottles beer – 1 can for the jus de brat and the rest to drink/share as you cook

Making the Jus de Brat

1. Chop onions
2. Add onions, butter, 1 can beer to pot
   
3. Add enough water to pot that the brats will be covered when cooked (it is a shame to waste good beer, hence the water.  Al understood that the flavor of the beer is not based on the quantity.
   
4. Bring to boil.
   
5. Turn down to simmer.
   

Frying the Brats

1. Preheat grill – I personally don’t care if it is charcoal or gas.  If it is charcoal, you need to keep a spray bottle of water or beer to douse flare ups.  If it’s gas, not so much.
2. Evenly position links on the grill.  I keep it on high flame and close the top for a few minutes.
   
3. Turn the brats every so often.
4. Feel free to be creative with the positioning of the brats on the grill.  Not only does it make for interesting grill lines, but it gives you an excellent creative outlet.
     
    Note the brazened break with protocol in the last picture.  Brat fries are quite tolerant of this behavior.
5. As brats seem to be  cooked, remove them from the grill and insert them into the jus de brat.  This keeps them piping hot, as well as fully hydrated if for some unimaginable reason they are not immediately eaten.
   
6. Cut the hard rolls and toast them on the grill.
7. Serve

Eating the Brats

1. Add one or two brats to hard roll.
   
2. Add mustard or ketchup.
3. Cover with top of hard roll.
4. Eat and enjoy.
   

Best Practices

• It is considered auspicious to have a dog in attendance to the brat fry.
  
• If you have just bought a new tent, feel free to set it up in your living room.
  
• Beautiful evening skies and full blue moons are considered ideal times to fry brats.