We went to the Miraflores Locks of the Panama Canal today.
Quick reminder: France tried to build the canal in late 1800’s, and it almost bankrupted them. U.S. took over in 1903, but not before they basically sent gunships down and told Colombia that either they would grant Panama independence and get a bunch of money, or…else. They went with $. The U.S. in payment, took a bunch of Panama. Interestingly, there were no Panamanians when the independence was signed.
The U.S. figured out how to make things work, but it is an unimaginable engineering feat. At least 22,000 people died building it, most from tropical disease. The locals suspect it was many more, as they weren’t counted if they didn’t die in hospital, and that’s the last place people wanted to go if sick, as everyone there was dying.
The U.S. basically ran things at cost, and the Panamanians gradually wanted the canal. Jimmy Carter signed a treaty that gave it to them. On December 31, 1999, they were ready, and took over. The U.S. was motivated partially due to the increasing rancor with the Panamanians. We had 40,000 troops stationed in Panama. There was a group of college students, (or gang members depending on which side you are), who tried to change the U.S. flag to Panamanian in the 60’s. 20 Panamanians were killed, 4, U.S. service men, and 500 were injured.
It is, apparently, the only institution in Panama run with any discipline, and it has become a huge money-making venture. In the neighborhood of 3 billion dollars annually. They’ve recently openned the new locks and canal, and can handle most megaships. It can cost upwards of $1,000,000 to traverse the locks.
In the morning, ships head north from the Pacific. At 3:00, they start heading south from the Atlantic. There are three locks on either side, taking the ships up to Lake Gatun, a damned river.
We were fortunate to arrive as a ship was leaving, and another coming in. It was morning, and we are on the Pacific side, which is, by the way, further east than the Atlantic entrance.
There was a huge container ship going through the new lock, but there is no visitor center there.
The ships come in, and cables are attached to “Mules,” or locomotive like engines, on either side, both forward and astern. The ship propels itself, and the mules keep it centered in the canal. Often there is only a foot on either side.
In our case, a few tugboats followed the ship, then a tourist ship. There were hundreds of people watching on the observation deck.
After the action, we watched a movie. It was primarily propaganda.
Has the time we spent in Spanish class in Cuenca paid off on your trip to Panama?
Glad to hear you guys are traveling again! I really enjoy seeing your pictures and the write up.
Thanks Steve! (& to Ellen, for emotional and blog support)
Merry Christmas! Good to hear from you. Will you be welcoming the new year in Thailand?
Our family spent two weeks in Panama with my sister’s family who were stationed at an Air Base in Panama in 1985. We had many adventures! The Canal was fascinating at that time too, gravity used to fill the locks. I’m enjoying very much your postings of your visit!
So pleased to see your very interesting blog posts showing up again!
Don and I went through the Panama Canal on a tanker in 1984. We talked our way on and were the only non-crew. That surely would not be possible today. Then we got back and told my grandfather about our trip. He was born in 1888 and remembered when the canal was built!
It is such fun to read your stories. Are you going to the San Blas islands? That was another highlight of our time in Panama.