Ho Chi Minh City had over 8.4 million vehicles – 819,000 cars and 7.6 million motorbikes – by the end of 2021. There are around 79 cars and 309 motorbikes newly registered every day. By my accounting, that makes about 350,000 more by now, or close to 8 million. It is nearly impossible to describe traffic here, as there are clearly unwritten rules of the road. People turning in front of others, U-turns anywhere, very narrow spaces between vehicles, and yet, it works for them. We wonder if it is somehow a Buddhist influence. You will hear horns, but you don’t see road rage here.
Recently, the government of Vietnam has instituted policies that have dramatically increased enforcement and penalties for traffic violations. For example, running a red light may bring a fine of about a half month’s average salary. They view it as a sign that Vietnam is becoming more of a first world country. Generally, people seem to be adjusting.
One may reasonably ask, why this focus on motorcycles in a post about a food tour. Well, we took our food tour on the back of motorbikes. It was a great way to really experience traffic here. I was able to keep my eyes open, though I can’t say the same for Ellen.
We really enjoyed this tour, as it was a group of twenty-somethings, all very excited about their culture and wanting to share it, and they talked about more than food.
Our first stop was at a spot where an event took place that most of us around during the 60’s remember. On June 11, 1963, Thich Quang Duc, a Vietnamese Buddhist monk, set himself on fire in Saigon to protest the persecution of Buddhists by the South Vietnamese government. This act of self-immolation was one of the earliest examples of political protest using this method.
Since that event, a Buddhist shrine has been built. Every new year, there is a ceremony that takes place here honoring him.
Our first food stop was, unsurprisingly, a noodle dish. We were in the 3rd district of Saigon, near the “oldest apartments in Saigon.”
Turns out, it was an apartment complex built by the U.S. Army in 1968. They took us on a tour –
Our next stop was the flower market. It runs 24/7, with most of the deliveries coming in the early morning. The woman’s role is to do the sales and run the business. The man’s role is doing the heavy lifting and delivery. It was pointed out that there are over 1000 species of flowers here. If one vendor doesn’t have something, they take them to their relative, neighbor, or friend, who may have it. And on and on –
Next stop we tried some rice wine and had samples of several different items. We were in a major local street food area, and there was a seemingly infinite variety of foods.
Last stop was banh mi and then flan. Then back on the scooters to our hotels.
Ok whats with those love cakes! LOL