Last Friday we left Cuenca for a weekend in Loja, about 3 1/2 hours south by van.
From Wikipedia:
The city of Loja was founded by Field Marshal Alonso de Mercadillo in 1548, and it is named for his hometown of Loja in Spain. Originally located near La Toma in the Catamayo canyon since 1546, the city was relocated to its present location (about 35 km east) after a devastating earthquake and problems with Malaria. At nearly 500 years, it is one of the oldest cities in Ecuador. One of its founding-reasons for the spanish colonizers was to have a fortified town next to the region of Zaruma, which was in that time rich in gold. It was as well a departure point for the Amazon Basin to search for the mystic town of El Dorado. The city was also visited by Simón Bolívar in his campaign to unite Gran Colombia. It declared its independence from Spain on November 18, 1820.
The city of Loja has the distinction of being the first city in Ecuador to be wired for electric power provided by a hydroelectric dam that was completed in the 1890s.
Traveling in vans in Ecuador provides the following tradeoffs:
- Vans are about 50% more expensive than buses ($12 vs. $8)
- Buses (of the better companies) may be more comfortable with seats arranged 2 by 2 rather than 3 across
- Vans go faster, primarily because their chief mission in life is to never allow another vehicle to be in front of them, so they pass whenever possible – the trip to Loja was 3 1/2 hours vs. 4 1/2.
Regardless of mode of transport, driving through the Andes can be quite beautiful. There seem to be multiple micro-climates, with some areas dry and brown where other areas are magnificent green. In many areas, most of the land is in use, primarily for crops and grazing, even up the sides of mountains.
Every area in Ecuador has its own unique indigenous style of clothing. As we approached Loja, black was a primary color of skirts, pants, ponchos, and hats. The men whore pants cut off just below the knee. They also sported long ponytails. I was struck as we drove past a soccer field where a local game was being played. A hill overlooking the field was lined with local fans, all wearing the black outfits and hats. In a strange way it reminded me of a group of Amish with hats and bonnets.
Because we were speeding along, the pictures of people were to blurry to see anything. In addition, there were patches of rain, particularly as we passed through cloud layers, so the windows had drops on them. Nonetheless, here are some representative shots of the landscape:
We kind of splurged on our hotel in Loja, staying at the Grand Victoria Boutique Hotel. This is partially because the price quoted did not contain the 10% service and 12% tax fees. Obviously, a 22% increase can be real cash.
The hotel is only about 40 meters from the central plaza. Our room was huge, and even had a couch. The place was decorated to the nines for Christmas. There were parties every night, and as the rooms open to the inside courtyard, we were able to hear all of them.
Friday night we ate at at restaurant called Dumas. It was named #1 in Loja by Lonely Planet and conveniently located around the corner from our hotel. We had the best meal we’ve had in Ecuador, and even took quite a bit home with us. Entrees were a whopping $10.50.
The hills surrounding Loja are home to some of the best coffee plantations in Ecuador. Saturday morning we set out to go to a cafe that specializes in serving this coffee. Most Ecuadorians drink Nescafe or spin-offs. The good stuff is exported. The cafe was closed, as are many on Saturdays and most on Sundays.
Only one museum was open, the Loja Cultural Museum. It had some interesting exhibits, especially photos from the early 1900’s of Loja culture. It rained off and on. That was fine, as we had a great room to relax and read in. We took the bus tour later in the day. In the evening, we went to a restaurant featuring ceviche, the national dish of Ecuador. We split a meal and it was plenty, another $10.50 well spent.
The city is done up for Christmas, with lights everywhere.
Sunday we went out to the Botanical Garden. It was supposed to open at 1:00. We left when it hadn’t opened by 1:30.
The hotel let us keep our room until we were ready to leave. No problem.
I am LOVING following your travels !!
xxoo…Sissy
It’s definitely feeling like an excellent adventure. Enjoying the pictures & commentary. Roz
those whoring pants in black cut just below the knees sound interesting!!!
I am just loving your travel writing and photos!